Sunday, June 10, 2007

Ireland - Day 7 - Newgrange, Knowth

Alas, on Day 6, we meant to drive up north to the Giant's Causeway - but were rather tired of being stuck in a car. So we opted to stay at home in Warrenpoint with Patrick's mother (I am sure she appreciated seeing more of us anyway). It was a relaxing, nice day.

Friday, Day 7, we set out on the road, newly refreshed, to visit the World Heritage Sites of Newgrange and Knowth in County Meath. We spent a couple hours first looking at the well-done museum, and then finally boarding shuttle buses that took us to the 2 different sites. These are stone-age passage tombs that are about 500 years older than the Pyramids (!). They are both big circular mounds of earth and stone. We first went to the smaller Knowth. The mound of earth was encircled by faint carved stones of varying designs. Amazingly, those stones contain one-fourth of all known megalithic art in Europe! With 2 passages facing the east and west for lunar reasons, many of the artwork on the 127 stones could represent lunar counts and calculations. Surrounding Knowth were 18 smaller satellite mounds. Unlike Newgrange which is larger, and we were allowed to go inside - I preferred Knowth for it's quantity of art.

After an informative guided tour and free time to walk around (even on top of the mound!) and explore we all headed back on a shuttle bus to take us to nearby Newgrange. One of the world's most famous ancient monuments (built around 3150 BC)it also has the engraved stones (97 compared to 127 at Knowth). Legend says that the foundations of Christianity were laid here.

Its major attraction is that on the Winter Solstice, the light of the rising sun enters the roofbox and penetrates the passage, shining onto the floor of the inner chamber. The sunbeam illuminates the chamber for just 17 minutes. They actually have a drawing in the Visitor Centre for this - and we promptly dropped our names in. They only allow 100 people a year over the course of 5 days to enter the very narrow passage and see it. Did I mention 'narrow'?? Our guide led us in groups of 16 inside - and warned us that those who are claustrophobic should stay at the back in case they need to head back out right away. I shot P an apprehensive look - I hate it but I do get claustrophobic at times. But being the BigShot I am, I led the group in right behind P and the guide - shoot, it got pitch dark instantly and the ceiling lowered as we squeezed through the narrowest part of the passage, I felt a surge of panic when I couldn't even see P right in front of me. But I continued on and it opened up to a SMALL, circular chamber where the guide explained how the Solstice worked by pressing a button that shown a light made to copy the real thing. It was very impressive - I am told - because I was behind a bunch of tall Germans and couldn't see the floor! It is amazing that with simple stone technology, these wonderful people captured a very significant astronomical and calendrical moment in a most spectacular way!

Click on Slideshow below
Ireland - Day 7 - Newgrange, Knowth

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